Hand-Stitched VS Machine Sewn Leather: A Comprehensive Guide to Understanding the Difference

Man Machine Stitching Leather

At first glance, the stitches on a leather item might seem like a simple detail, easily overlooked and not particularly remarkable. However, these stitches often serve as a subtle yet crucial element that adds to both the functionality and artistry of the piece. What may initially appear as an ordinary feature can, upon closer inspection, reveal the craftsmanship and attention to detail that elevate the item from being merely functional to something truly exceptional.

Machine Sewn Leather Diagram Side View

Machine sewing uses a motorized machine with a needle that inserts thread from a spool at the top of the machine to meet and "catch" the bottom thread from a bobbin underneath the leather and pull it up on the return pass; effectively making a loop around the holes in the material. This technique requires the operator to either secure the thread by "backstitching" (stitching forward and backward to secure the stitches) or manually tying knots in the thread and burning or gluing the ends.

Machine Sewn Leather Piece with Broken Thread Diagram Side View

Machine sewing, when snagged at any point in the line can unravel the whole section because the stitches are not secured except at the beginning and the end and do not wrap all the way around the holes in the leather.

Hand Sewing on Leather Diagram Side View

Hand-sewing has a different technique. Hand-sewing requires the operator to thread a length of waxed thread manually with two needles, one on either side of the thread at the same time.

The operator then inserts both needles on opposite sides of the hole and pulls the thread through. It locks the thread around the bit of leather between the holes (see diagram above.)

It is a very durable technique originally used in hand-sewn saddles and other tack for horses. It will not easily unravel down the line if one stitch is cut or frayed. The waxed nature of the thread also adds a security to this style of stitching. The thread cannot "slip" through the holes without tugging on the length of thread manually.

The length of stitches is then tied in a knot and burned with a lighter or other special hot tool and permanently bonded together. The wax coating the thread also melts and aids in the knot's strength. Someone would have to actively cut the knot off of the length of thread and pull out each stitch to unravel it. If bonded and burned properly, the stitches from hand-sewing are extremely reliable and strong.

At Holy Queen Handmade, we opt to hand-stitch all our leather goods, ensuring that they possess the durability and strength to last for generations.

+Deo Gratias+

Learn what waxed thread is and why we use it here.